Amidst a pandemic, there's not much lobster roll exploring going on for me. The state of Maine was buttoned up pretty tightly up until about a month ago, and the thought of curbside pickup doesn't lend itself to experiencing the atmosphere of the lobster roll establishment - a very important part of the review. Oh, and I've kind of become an anxious shut-in as a result of COVID-19 which also doesn't help my situation.
So last week the restaurants started opening up in the more populated counties and we took advantage of the loosening restrictions to head up to Cook's Lobster & Ale House on Bailey Island. Still not quite ready to test the inside dining scene, we found a nice sunny but slightly chilly spot on their deck overlooking Harpswell Sound.
It's been years since we've been to Cook's. The last time wasn't good. At all. But after hearing from a few folks that the food has improved, we decided to give them another chance. And as many times as I've been to this establishment, surprisingly, I've never had their lobster roll!
The lobster roll comes two ways and both include chips, coleslaw, and a pickle - the Traditional, lightly folded with mayo for $20.00 (Does anyone else hear Moira Rose yelling, "Fold in the cheese!") It also comes as Hot Buttered, lobster sauteed in hot drawn butter, also for $20.00. You could also get the Jumbo version of either of these rolls for $36.00 (OOOF!) I found the $20 price tag to be a bit steep considering the size of the lobster roll - but then again, everything on the menu seemed a tad pricey.
The meal was pleasantly presented in a metal tray and even the lobster roll was dressed in its Sunday best with a frock of frilly lettuce. Honestly, I'm done complaining about the lettuce as long as it isn't obviously used as bun filler and is easily removed without compromising the state of the lobster meat. I need to concede to the fact that lettuce is a universally acceptable lobster roll garnish.
So... the lobster roll was just... meh. Edible, but not very exciting. Most of its meh-ness comes from the ineptness of the person responsible for grilling my hot dog bun. The bun was clearly buttered on both sides but then appeared to have just been waved over a candle instead of actually grilled on the stove. The lobster meat was cooked adequately with the right amount of mayo, but there was nothing extra special about its flavor. And for $20, the amount of meat felt skimpy.
Cook's is a cool spot and now would be the time to go with the reduction in tourist traffic. The beer list was decent and the view is solid. But be prepared to drop some dough on your dinner this summer. Also, does an above-average view even out a merely average meal?
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