Kennebunkport Lobster Roll #3: The Clam Shack

I read a lot of "Best Of" lists when it comes to lobster rolls - always looking for the one that got away. Sometimes I agree with the list maker and sometimes I wonder if they were on crack when they ate the lobster roll and sometimes I wonder if they actually ate the damn thing. The Clam Shack in Kennebunkport shows up on those lists. A lot. I've been trying to get down there for years to try their offering, but Kennebunkport can be daunting to locals on a summer Saturday with its swarms of tourists – but because of our current situation, I figured I'd give it a shot.

The Clam Shack is 100% on board with all the COVID-19 safety precautions. There are many requests to wear masks any time you're not at your table – so many signs that not wearing a mask is (like the tourists in front of me in line) just friggin' barbaric. I watched the staff carefully sanitize each socially distant picnic table after each party left so I felt super safe!

The Clam Shack sits on the Kennebunk side of the bridge overlooking the Kennebunk River right in the middle of all the action. It's hard to miss. It's a true shack so you order at the window and the masked/gloved staff member delivers the food to your table. I ordered the Lobster Roll Lunch Box for $23.95 which includes the lobster roll, pickle slices, coleslaw, and fries. I was excited about this roll despite it not being served on the traditional split top roll – I am a traditionalist, after all.

The Clam Shack has an entire page on their website dedicated to their lobster roll:

NO FRILLS, BUT WORTH ALL THE FUSS  

Our lobster roll is an award-winning take on the classic New England sandwich. It's become a rock star in the Maine seafood scene, receiving culinary accolades from major food publications to national television shows. The Clam Shack roll crushes the competition because of our commitment to using fresh, locally sourced ingredients and never compromising on quality.

So the good news... the lobster meat was delicious. Boiling the bugs in fresh seawater makes the meat so incredibly salty and delightfully sweet. I have a hard time believing there are lobster shacks out there that don't prepare the meat in this way. Also, when ordering, they'll ask if you'd like mayo, butter, or both. Pick both. Definitely pick both. It's mildly life-altering. I only wish there was more of it on my plate.

And the bad news... as much as I wanted to be on board with the hamburger/bulky-style roll, I found it to be too distracting. Because only the inside of the bun is grilled, you miss out on the crunch of buttery, toasted goodness that the New England style roll provides. The "Reilly Roll," locally made in Biddeford, was also just bready and sweet enough to overpower the amount of lobster meat on the sandwich. If they piled up the lobster meat a little more, I think the bun may have worked a little better.

I really wanted to love this sandwich, but my feelings were mixed. For me, a lobster roll is all about the lobster and how it's prepared and how it tastes – not the bread. A nice traditional hot dog roll is not an overpowering flavor and if it's buttered and grilled perfectly, the only real taste it brings to the lobster is butter. And I'm not sure there's anything that pairs with lobster better than butter. 

In the end, while the bun didn't work for me, the lobster did so if you don't mind a bready lobster roll, you may love this one. I'm curious if others feel this way or I'm just too picky about my bread!

Bailey Island Lobster Roll: Cook's Lobster & Ale House

Amidst a pandemic, there's not much lobster roll exploring going on for me. The state of Maine was buttoned up pretty tightly up until about a month ago, and the thought of curbside pickup doesn't lend itself to experiencing the atmosphere of the lobster roll establishment - a very important part of the review. Oh, and I've kind of become an anxious shut-in as a result of COVID-19 which also doesn't help my situation.

So last week the restaurants started opening up in the more populated counties and we took advantage of the loosening restrictions to head up to Cook's Lobster & Ale House on Bailey Island. Still not quite ready to test the inside dining scene, we found a nice sunny but slightly chilly spot on their deck overlooking Harpswell Sound.

It's been years since we've been to Cook's. The last time wasn't good. At all. But after hearing from a few folks that the food has improved, we decided to give them another chance. And as many times as I've been to this establishment, surprisingly, I've never had their lobster roll!

The lobster roll comes two ways and both include chips, coleslaw, and a pickle - the Traditional, lightly folded with mayo for $20.00 (Does anyone else hear Moira Rose yelling, "Fold in the cheese!") It also comes as Hot Buttered, lobster sauteed in hot drawn butter, also for $20.00. You could also get the Jumbo version of either of these rolls for $36.00 (OOOF!) I found the $20 price tag to be a bit steep considering the size of the lobster roll - but then again, everything on the menu seemed a tad pricey.

The meal was pleasantly presented in a metal tray and even the lobster roll was dressed in its Sunday best with a frock of frilly lettuce. Honestly, I'm done complaining about the lettuce as long as it isn't obviously used as bun filler and is easily removed without compromising the state of the lobster meat. I need to concede to the fact that lettuce is a universally acceptable lobster roll garnish.

So... the lobster roll was just... meh. Edible, but not very exciting. Most of its meh-ness comes from the ineptness of the person responsible for grilling my hot dog bun. The bun was clearly buttered on both sides but then appeared to have just been waved over a candle instead of actually grilled on the stove. The lobster meat was cooked adequately with the right amount of mayo, but there was nothing extra special about its flavor. And for $20, the amount of meat felt skimpy.

Cook's is a cool spot and now would be the time to go with the reduction in tourist traffic. The beer list was decent and the view is solid. But be prepared to drop some dough on your dinner this summer. Also, does an above-average view even out a merely average meal?